且說顏生同那人進屋坐下。雨墨在燈下一看，見他頭戴一頂開花儒巾，身穿一件零碎藍衫，足下穿一雙無根底破皁靴頭兒，滿臉塵土，實在不像唸書之人，倒像個無賴。正思想卻他之法，又見店東親來陪罪。那人道：「你不必如此。大人不記小人過，饒恕你便了。」店東去後，顏生便問道：「尊兄貴姓？」那人道：「吾姓金名懋叔。」雨墨暗道：「他也配姓金。我主人才姓金呢，那是何等體面仗義。像他這個窮樣子，連銀也不配姓呀。常言說，「姓金沒有金，一定窮斷筋。」我們相公是要上他的當的。」又聽那人道：「沒領教兄台貴姓。」顏生也通了姓名。金生道：「原來是顏兄，失敬失敬。請問顏兄，用過飯了沒有？」顏生道：「尚未。金兄可用過了？」金生道：「不曾。何不共桌而食呢？叫小二來。」此時店小二拿了一壺香片茶來，放在桌上。金生便問道：「你們這裡有甚麼飯食？」小二道：「上等飯食八兩，中等飯六兩，下等飯……」剛說至此，金生攔道：「誰吃下等飯呢。就是上等飯罷。吾且問你，這上等飯是甚麼肴饌？」小二道：「兩海碗，兩旋子，六大碗，四中碗，還有八個碟兒。無非雞鴨魚肉翅子海參等類，調度的總要合心配口。」金生道：「可有活鯉魚麼？」小二道：「要活鯉魚是大的，一兩二錢銀子一尾。」金生道：「既要吃，不怕花錢。吾告訴你，鯉魚不過一斤的叫做「拐子」，過了一斤的才是鯉魚。不獨要活的，還要尾巴像那胭脂瓣兒相似，那才是新鮮的呢。你拿來，吾看。」又問：「酒是甚麼酒？」小二道：「不過隨便常行酒。」金生道：「不要那個。吾要喝陳年女貞陳紹。」小二道：「有十年蠲下的女貞陳紹；就是不零賣，那是四兩銀子一壇。」金生道：「你好貧哪！甚麼四兩五兩，不拘多少，你搭一壇來當面開開，吾嘗就是了。吾告訴你說，吾要那金紅顏色濃濃香，倒了碗內要掛碗。猶如琥珀一般，那才是好的呢。」小二道：「搭一壇來，當面錐嘗。不好不要錢，如何？」金生道：「那是自然。」
且说颜生同那人进屋坐下。雨墨在灯下一看，见他头戴一顶开花儒巾，身穿一件零碎蓝衫，足下穿一双无根底破皂靴头儿，满脸尘土，实在不像念书之人，倒像个无赖。正思想却他之法，又见店东亲来陪罪。那人道：「你不必如此。大人不记小人过，饶恕你便了。」店东去后，颜生便问道：「尊兄贵姓？」那人道：「吾姓金名懋叔。」雨墨暗道：「他也配姓金。我主人才姓金呢，那是何等体面仗义。像他这个穷样子，连银也不配姓呀。常言说，「姓金没有金，一定穷断筋。」我们相公是要上他的当的。」又听那人道：「没领教兄台贵姓。」颜生也通了姓名。金生道：「原来是颜兄，失敬失敬。请问颜兄，用过饭了没有？」颜生道：「尚未。金兄可用过了？」金生道：「不曾。何不共桌而食呢？叫小二来。」此时店小二拿了一壶香片茶来，放在桌上。金生便问道：「你们这里有甚么饭食？」小二道：「上等饭食八两，中等饭六两，下等饭……」刚说至此，金生拦道：「谁吃下等饭呢。就是上等饭罢。吾且问你，这上等饭是甚么肴馔？」小二道：「两海碗，两旋子，六大碗，四中碗，还有八个碟儿。无非鸡鸭鱼肉翅子海参等类，调度的总要合心配口。」金生道：「可有活鲤鱼么？」小二道：「要活鲤鱼是大的，一两二钱银子一尾。」金生道：「既要吃，不怕花钱。吾告诉你，鲤鱼不过一斤的叫做「拐子」，过了一斤的才是鲤鱼。不独要活的，还要尾巴像那胭脂瓣儿相似，那才是新鲜的呢。你拿来，吾看。」又问：「酒是甚么酒？」小二道：「不过随便常行酒。」金生道：「不要那个。吾要喝陈年女贞陈绍。」小二道：「有十年蠲下的女贞陈绍；就是不零卖，那是四两银子一坛。」金生道：「你好贫哪！甚么四两五两，不拘多少，你搭一坛来当面开开，吾尝就是了。吾告诉你说，吾要那金红颜色浓浓香，倒了碗内要挂碗。犹如琥珀一般，那才是好的呢。」小二道：「搭一坛来，当面锥尝。不好不要钱，如何？」金生道：「那是自然。」
Now, Yan and the stranger had gone indoors and sat down. By the lamplight Yumo took a good look at the man. On his head was a scholar’s cap split open at the seams; he wore a tattered blue gown, and on his feet a pair of broken black boots with neither heels nor soles to speak of. His face was caked with dust. He looked nothing like a scholar — more like a good-for-nothing. Yumo was just thinking how to get rid of him when the landlord came in person to apologize. “There’s no need for that,” said the man. “A great man does not hold a small man’s faults against him. I forgive you, and there’s an end of it.” When the landlord had gone, Yan asked, “May I ask your honoured name, brother?” “My family name is Jin,” said the man, “and my given name Maoshu.” Yumo said to himself, “He’s fit to be called Jin, is he? My master back home is the one who’s called Jin — and what a fine, open-handed gentleman he is! A beggarly sort like this isn’t fit to be called even Silver. As the saying goes, ‘Gold by name and none in hand, the poorest pauper in the land.’ The young master’s going to be taken in by him, I can tell.” Then he heard the man say, “I have not yet had the honour of learning your name, brother.” Yan told him his name in turn. “So it’s Brother Yan!” said Jin. “Forgive me, forgive me. May I ask, Brother Yan, whether you have dined?” “Not yet,” said Yan. “Have you, Brother Jin?” “I have not,” said Jin. “Then why not share a table? Call the boy.” Just then the inn boy came in with a pot of jasmine tea and set it on the table. “What have you got to eat here?” Jin asked him. “Top-class dinner is eight taels,” said the boy, “middle-class six, and low-class—” He had got only that far when Jin cut him short. “Who eats low-class? Top-class it is. Now let me ask you: what dishes come with this top-class dinner?” “Two tureens, two platters, six large bowls, four medium bowls and eight little dishes besides,” said the boy. “Chicken, duck, fish, pork, shark’s fin, sea cucumber and the like — and all of it done just to your taste.” “Have you any live carp?” asked Jin. “If it’s live carp you want, they’re big ones,” said the boy. “A tael and two qian of silver a fish.” “If I’m going to eat it, I don’t care what it costs,” said Jin. “Let me tell you something. A carp of a catty or less is called a tiddler; only over a catty is it a real carp. And it isn’t enough for it to be alive: its tail has to be red as a petal of rouge — that’s how you know it’s fresh. Bring it here and let me see.” Then he asked, “And what wine is there?” “Just the ordinary house wine,” said the boy. “Not that,” said Jin. “I want old Nüzhen Shaoxing, well aged.” “We have Nüzhen Shaoxing that’s been laid down ten years,” said the boy, “only we don’t sell it by the measure. It’s four taels of silver a jar.” “How you do go on!” said Jin. “Four taels, five taels — whatever it costs, carry a jar in here and open it in front of me, and I’ll taste it, and that’s that. And let me tell you, I want it golden red and rich in fragrance, so thick it clings to the bowl when it’s poured. Like amber — that’s good wine.” “We’ll carry in a jar and tap it in front of you for you to taste,” said the boy. “If it’s no good, you don’t pay. How’s that?” “Naturally,” said Jin.
說話間，已然掌上兩支燈燭。此時店小二歡欣非常，小心慇懃，自不必說。少時端了一個腰子形兒的木盆來，裡面歡蹦亂跳、足一斤多重的鯉魚。說道：「爺上請看，這尾鯉魚如何？」金生道：「魚卻是鯉魚。你務必用這半盆水叫那魚躺著；一來顯大，二來水淺，他必撲騰，算是活跳跳的，賣這個手法兒。你不要拿著走，就在此處開了膛，省得抵換。」店小二隻得當面收拾。金生又道：「你收拾好了，把他鮮串著。──可是你們加甚麼作料？」店小二道：「無非是香蕈口蘑，加些紫菜。」金生道：「吾是要「尖上尖」的。」小二卻不明白。金生道：「怎麼你不曉得？尖上尖就是那青筍尖兒上頭的尖兒，總要嫩切成條兒，要吃那末咯吱咯吱的才好。」店小二答應。不多時，又搭了一壇酒來，拿著錐子倒流兒，並有個磁盆。當面錐透，下上倒流兒，撒出酒來，果然美味真香。先舀一盆灌入壺內；略燙一燙，二人對面消飲。小二放下小菜，便一樣一樣端上來。金生連箸也不動，只是就佛手疙疸慢飲，盡等吃活魚。二人飲酒閒談，越說越投機。顏生歡喜非常。少時用大盤盛了魚來。金生便拿起箸子來，讓顏生道：「魚是要吃熱的，冷了就要發腥了。」布了顏生一塊，自己便將魚脊背拿筷子一划。要了姜醋碟。吃一塊魚，喝一盅酒，連聲稱贊：「妙哉，妙哉！」將這面吃完，筷子往魚腮裡一插，一翻手就將魚的那面翻過來。又布了顏生一塊，仍用筷子一划，又是一塊魚，一盅酒，將這面也吃了。然後要了一個中碗來，將蒸食雙落一對掰在碗內，一連掰了四個。舀了魚湯，泡了個稀槽，忽嘍忽嘍吃了。又將碟子扣上，將盤子那邊支起，從這邊舀了三匙湯喝了。便道：「吾是飽了。顏兄自便莫拘莫拘。」顏生也飽了。
说话间，已然掌上两支灯烛。此时店小二欢欣非常，小心慇懃，自不必说。少时端了一个腰子形儿的木盆来，里面欢蹦乱跳、足一斤多重的鲤鱼。说道：「爷上请看，这尾鲤鱼如何？」金生道：「鱼却是鲤鱼。你务必用这半盆水叫那鱼躺着；一来显大，二来水浅，他必扑腾，算是活跳跳的，卖这个手法儿。你不要拿着走，就在此处开了膛，省得抵换。」店小二只得当面收拾。金生又道：「你收拾好了，把他鲜串着。──可是你们加甚么作料？」店小二道：「无非是香蕈口蘑，加些紫菜。」金生道：「吾是要「尖上尖」的。」小二却不明白。金生道：「怎么你不晓得？尖上尖就是那青笋尖儿上头的尖儿，总要嫩切成条儿，要吃那末咯吱咯吱的才好。」店小二答应。不多时，又搭了一坛酒来，拿着锥子倒流儿，并有个磁盆。当面锥透，下上倒流儿，撒出酒来，果然美味真香。先舀一盆灌入壶内；略烫一烫，二人对面消饮。小二放下小菜，便一样一样端上来。金生连箸也不动，只是就佛手疙疸慢饮，尽等吃活鱼。二人饮酒闲谈，越说越投机。颜生欢喜非常。少时用大盘盛了鱼来。金生便拿起箸子来，让颜生道：「鱼是要吃热的，冷了就要发腥了。」布了颜生一块，自己便将鱼脊背拿筷子一划。要了姜醋碟。吃一块鱼，喝一盅酒，连声称赞：「妙哉，妙哉！」将这面吃完，筷子往鱼腮里一插，一翻手就将鱼的那面翻过来。又布了颜生一块，仍用筷子一划，又是一块鱼，一盅酒，将这面也吃了。然后要了一个中碗来，将蒸食双落一对掰在碗内，一连掰了四个。舀了鱼汤，泡了个稀槽，忽喽忽喽吃了。又将碟子扣上，将盘子那边支起，从这边舀了三匙汤喝了。便道：「吾是饱了。颜兄自便莫拘莫拘。」颜生也饱了。
While they talked, two candles had been lit. By now the inn boy was as happy as could be, and how careful and attentive he was there is no need to say. Presently he brought in a kidney-shaped wooden tub, and in it, leaping and flapping, was a carp weighing a good catty and more. “Take a look, sir,” he said. “How’s this carp?” “It’s a carp, sure enough,” said Jin. “But you made a point of putting in only half a tub of water so that the fish has to lie on its side. For one thing, that makes it look bigger; for another, in shallow water it’s bound to thrash about, so it passes for lively. That’s the trick you’re pulling. Don’t carry it off. Gut it right here, so there’s no swapping it.” The inn boy had no choice but to clean it there in front of him. “When you’ve cleaned it,” Jin went on, “poach it fresh. Oh, and what do you put in for flavouring?” “Just shiitake and Mongolian mushrooms,” said the inn boy, “and a little seaweed.” “I want tip of the tips in mine,” said Jin. The boy didn’t understand. “What, you don’t know?” said Jin. “Tip of the tips is the very tip at the top of a green shoot. It has to be tender and cut into strips — it’s only good if it goes crunch, crunch when you eat it.” The inn boy said he would see to it. Before long a jar of wine was carried in as well, along with an awl, a pouring spout and a porcelain basin. There before their eyes the seal was pierced, the spout fitted and the wine let out — and it really was fine-tasting and truly fragrant. First a basinful was ladled out and poured into the wine pot, and when it had been warmed a little, the two men sat facing each other and sipped at their ease. The boy set down the little side dishes and then brought in the courses one by one. Jin did not so much as touch his chopsticks. He only sipped slowly, with nothing but the Buddha’s-hand pickles to go with his wine, saving himself entirely for the live fish. The two of them drank and chatted, and the more they talked, the better they got on. Yan was delighted. Presently the fish came in on a large platter. Jin took up his chopsticks and pressed Yan to begin. “Fish must be eaten hot,” he said. “Once it’s cold, it turns fishy.” He served Yan a piece, then drew his chopsticks down the fish’s back in a single stroke. He called for a dish of ginger and vinegar. A piece of fish, a cup of wine; and again and again he exclaimed, “Exquisite, exquisite!” When he had finished this side, he stuck his chopsticks into the fish’s gills and with a flick of the wrist turned it over. Again he served Yan a piece, again he drew his chopsticks down it, and again it was a piece of fish, a cup of wine, until this side was gone too. Then he called for a medium bowl and broke a pair of steamed double rolls into it — four pieces, one after another. He ladled fish broth over them, soaked them to a mush and slurped it all up — slurp, slurp! Then he set a saucer upside down under the platter to prop up the far side, and from the near side spooned up three spoonfuls of broth and drank them. “I’ve had my fill,” he said. “Help yourself, Brother Yan — no ceremony, no ceremony.” Yan had had his fill too.
二人出席。金生吩咐：「吾們就一小童。該蒸的，該熱的，不可與他冷吃。想來還有酒。他若喝時，只管給他喝。」店小二連連答應。說著說著話，他二人便進裡間屋內去了。
二人出席。金生吩咐：「吾们就一小童。该蒸的，该热的，不可与他冷吃。想来还有酒。他若喝时，只管给他喝。」店小二连连答应。说着说着话，他二人便进里间屋内去了。
The two of them left the table. Jin gave his orders: “There’s just the one page boy with us. Whatever needs steaming, whatever needs heating up, don’t give it to him cold. And I expect there’s some wine left. If he wants a drink, let him drink all he likes.” The inn boy said yes, yes. Still chatting away, the two men went into the inner room.